Dainty seashell jewelry has been trending globally in fashion this year. Some crafters use cowries and conch shells to make necklaces, earrings and bracelets, while others in Hawaiʻi gravitate toward ʻopihi for its distinctive look.
But the recent popularity of ʻopihi jewelry has some residents worried about overharvesting and even questioned if jewelry makers are using undersized ʻopihi.
Kauaʻi resident Chloe Yoshihiro is the owner of Holoholo Jewelry. She created an Instagram post earlier this year to raise awareness on the issue. The post gained more than 200,000 views and hundreds of interactions.
“You can’t practice sustainability without education,” she said.
ʻOpihi are sea snails that cling to rocks in wave-pounding areas across the state. They’re typically oval-shaped and look like miniature, snow-capped mountains from the side. Most are black and white in color.
State law doesn’t allow possession or the sale of ʻopihi shells — with or without the meat — if it’s less than an inch and a quarter in diameter. That’s to ensure that the sea snails reach reproduction age.
Yoshihiro said she created the post after she went to a local market and saw some ʻopihi jewelry that was questionable in size.
“Some of them (jewelry makers) try to say that they’ve shaved the shell down, but I think it’s obvious what size the shell truly is,” she said.
In recent years, the state Department of Land and Natural Resources has cited people for picking undersized ʻopihi in Hawaiʻi.
Yoshihiro, who comes from a family of fishermen, said there needs to be more education about shell gathering.
“I’m just here to educate people so they can be more sustainable when they’re making jewelry and when people are buying jewelry because it’s both sides of the spectrum in terms of being responsible,” she said.
Yoshihiro said she uses ʻopihi ʻawa as an alternative to make her jewelry. They’re false limpets that aren’t covered by state law and look similar to true ʻopihi. The spines on ʻopihi ʻawa are generally thicker and they need air to breathe.
Historically, ʻopihi was a food staple turned delicacy, and shells were used for tools, instruments, and jewelry.
Anthony Mau, a local ʻopihi expert, said that Native Hawaiians have continued to wear ʻopihi as adornment.
“It's critical to honor that history in the use of these bio-cultural resources, and know that where we are in contemporary times, the use of other materials to accompany these shells is relatively new, and the way that we're moving these materials through society is also done differently than before,” he said.
Mau said he’s not worried about "overshelling," but wants people to understand the sources available in their environment.
“My hope is that we start with making sure that the next generation are focused on reconnecting with the spaces that are critically important in terms of management,” he said.
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