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Asia Minute: Japan’s Push for “Local Sake”

halfrain / Flickr
halfrain / Flickr

The definition of what constitutes “locally-made” can produce some discussion around the islands, whether that product is “Kona coffee” or “locally-brewed beer.” That sort of debate is getting some attention in Japan when it comes to sake. HPR’s Bill Dorman explains in today’s Asia Minute.

So what’s the difference between “sake” and “Japanese sake?”

To the Japanese government, it’s a huge difference—and one that may wind up in the rulebook of the World Trade Organization.  The Kyodo News Agency quotes sources as saying the National Tax Agency is considering defining “Japanese sake” as a drink made with Japanese grown rice and Japanese water, to differentiate it from sake brewed in other countries.  The Asahi Shimbun likens the issue to “Scotch whiskey” which must be distilled in Scotland and “Champagne” which can only come from the Champagne region of France.

The phrase involved is called a “geographical indication status” which would prevent overseas brewers from advertising their beverages as “Japanese sake” in any market that’s a member of the World Trade Organization.  All of this is critical for Japanese sake brewers because while domestic consumption has been in decline for years, exports are booming, setting a record last year for the 5th year in a row.  The biggest markets include the United States, Hong Kong and South Korea.

The drink’s even had a bit of a political impact. At the White House state dinner a couple of months ago for Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe, the official toasts were made not with champagne….but with sake.

Bill Dorman has been the news director at Hawaiʻi Public Radio since 2011.
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